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Double Bass Accessories - strings - carry cases - bow cases and quivers from the doublebass specialists The Contrabass Shoppe for doublebasses (double basses) musical instruments

Bass Sure-Lock Tailpiece Wire

Bass Sure-Lock Tailpiece Wire
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Bass Sure-Lock - Double Bass Tailpiece Wire

My tailwire has broken and I can't play my bass any more. I need a good replacement that doesn't cost too much. What do you recommend?

The bass Surelock is a flexible high tension stainless-steel cable with a W-lock collar that one can simply crimp together by hitting it with a hammer. The advantages of the system are;

1) It is very simple to fit.
2) It is very quick to fit
3) The steel wire is unbreakable under normal use.

How simple is it to fit?

Very. There are two different places in which the lock collar can be positioned. The position will depend largely on the design of the tailpiece but can also be subject to personal preference.

1) For "hollowed" type tailpieces with the tailwire holes running directly into a recess or cutaway in the lower back face - the lock collar can be discreetly tucked away into the recess. This is what you do;

a) Remove the loose locking cleat from the steel cable.
b) Thread one end of the steel cable through one of the holes at the bottom of the tailpiece and into one side of the lock collar.
c) Thread the other end of the steel cable through the other hole of the tailpiece and back into the other side of the lock collar.
d) With the instrument on its back - allow the tailpiece to rest on a cloth in the correct position.
e) Adjust the steel wire to length.
f) Remove the tailpiece with wire and position the locking collar on a hard, stable surface.
g) Give the lock collar a hard blow with a hammer to lock the cable in place.
h) Remove the surplus tail ends of the steel cable with a hacksaw or heavy duty cable clippers.

That's it. Job done. All that you have to do now - is reassemble the instrument.

2) For "tulip" model tailpieces with front to back tailwire holes - the lock collar must be positioned between the endpin unit and the bottom saddle. This is what you do;

a) Remove one end of the steel cable from the loose locking cleat.
b) Thread the end of the steel cable up through one of the holes at the bottom of the tailpiece and back down through the other hole so as to create a loop.
c) With the instrument on its back - allow the tailpiece to rest on a cloth in the correct position.
d) Loop the end of the steel cable around the bottom of the endpin unit and back into the free side of the W-lock collar.
e) Adjust the steel wire to length.
f) Remove the tailpiece with wire and position the lock collar on a hard, stable surface.
g) Give the lock collar a hard blow with a hammer to lock the cable in place.
h) Remove the surplus ends of the steel cable with a hacksaw or heavy duty cable clippers.

That's it. Job done. All that you have to do now - is reassemble the instrument.

Can I do the fitting myself?

Providing that you know how to use a hammer - it should be simple enough for any adult to do. It is likely however - that the main problem will not be in the actual fitting of the Sure-Lock - it will be in the complete reassembly of your instrument. Both the soundpost and the bridge will have to be put back into position before the strings can be bought up to pitch. If this is the case - then you may well be better off popping into your local restorer or violin shop to have everything done properly.

Is there anything else to consider?

Yes - if you are going to fit the Bass Sure-Lock yourself there are several things that are worth considering.

1) You should take note of the diameter of the steel cable. This is a fairly heavy duty cable and may be slightly too thick to go straight through the holes in the tailpiece. The obvious solution is to drill the holes slightly larger using a suitable diameter drill. For those of you who have the necessary tools and are DIY adept - this should be quite straight forward.
2) The ends of the steel cable can start to fray and unwind making it more difficult to insert them into the holes of the tailwire or the W-lock. If this happens it may be necessary to remove the frayed part with a hack saw or heavy duty wire cutter.
3) The ends of the steel cable are sharp - particularly if the cable becomes frayed and the individual strands of wire separate. Skin can become punctured very quickly if sufficient care is not taken.
4) The security of the device depends on the successful cleating together of the W-Lock Collar. For total security it is recommended that the lock collar is cleated together using a special cleating device.

Summary:

The Bass Sure-Lock is a "basic" device that allows you to attach your tailpiece to your instrument. It has found favour in many bass repair shops right around the world because it is flexible, simple to fit, can be fitted discreetly and providing the fitting operation has been done properly - secure to use. Best of all - the device is inexpensive to purchase and once it has been fitted - there is nil maintenance.

Stats:
Length of steel cable: 27.0cm (average)
Diameter of steel cable: 0.328cm (average) Dimensions of lock collar: 1.6cm x 1.3cm x 0.9cm (average)
Total weight: 27.5gm (average)

Bass Sure-Lock Price: £ 14-00

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